Pinasco 215 Installation

Instructions provided with the Pinasco Kit are attached (Pinasco 215 install instructions.pdf). These are incomplete and there are some more steps that are needed due to the original design being for non electric start engines. Also Pinasco have recently put updated instructions online (as of 2008).

Also check out the pictures from a day we dedicated to fitting a couple of Pinasco kits: Pinasco Lab

1. Remove the old cylinder, this can be done with the engine in the frame

• Prop the rear up so that the rear wheel can be removed
• Remove the exhaust
• Loosen the fuel pipe inside the carb (so it does not get stretched)
• Remove the air bellows to the frame
• Remove the oil feed if it needs it (remember to use a bit of oil in the tank when you replace it)
• Remove the rear shock nut at the base and carefully lower the engine, making sure no cables or tubes are getting stretched (keep a block of wood handy in case you need to prop the engine back up again)
• In this position all the bits associated with the cylinder can be removed
• Remove the piston taking care not to shock the crank (i.e. don't hit the pin with a hammer, use a combinations of "all thread", nuts, washers and sockets)

2. If you have an electric start cog on the flywheel, you can either remove it or remove a small amount of metal from the Pinasco cylinder. The next step is to measure how much metal needs to be removed from the Pinasco kit. The kit needs to have a bit ground off to allow clearance for the starter gears on the flywheel. The kit obviously has not been updated to cater for electric start models.

• Place the Pinasco kit on the studs and locate where the starter gears rub (i.e. fit the kit and see why it doesn't fit)
• Turn the starter and let the starter gear on the flywheel mark where it hits (black marker over the area may help)
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• Remove the cyclinder and grind away where the marks are being VERY careful not to go through to the transfer port
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• Replace the kit and see if it still rubs, if it does, repeat the above steps, grinding a bit more away. You should expect to do this a few times, it is more important not to take too much off than rush the job!
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• Do a final check by bolting on the head to make sure that you have enough clearance when it is all back together.

Note: take care not to get bits of metal in the crank

3. Alter the base gasket,the ports in the cases are larger than the ports in the standard cylinder, the Pinasco ports are larger than those, so even though you may not match ports, you do have a bit of room to move.

• simpley cut the original base gasket to suit the case ports (or alternatively to suit the Pinasco ports)
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4. The fit the Pinasco kit

• Place the rings on the piston (note: the l-ring is on top, there are position pegs to ensure that the rings are at the correct angle of rotation)
• Place the piston inside the cyclinder (this saves you mucking around trying to line up rings later)
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• Turn the piston so that the side with no cut-outs faces the exhaust port
• Lower the cylnder and piston onto the crank, then fit all the bits (i.e. pin, bearing and circlips)

5. Bolt everything back the way it was

• add a little oil to the fuel (for good luck) but not too much

6. Now sort out your jetting (i.e. bigger main jet)

Note: The Pinasco kit instructions talk about drilling a hole in the filter. You can do this without the kit and see a performance improvement of about 0.5 HP. If yo udo this, make sure you increase the mainjet size. After any engine change, check plug colour to confirm your mixture is not to lean (or rich).

7. Make sure that the exhaust is clamped on securely to the cylinder exhaust flange. The Pinasco kit is aluminium and if the exhaust starts to vibrate against it, it will quickly ware. For extra reliability you can weld a lug to the exhaust and secure it using a strong spring to a fin (via a drilled hole) or cowl screw. This will also protect the main exhaust bracket if flange clamp becomes loose, as it will prevent the exhaust from rattling (and cracking).